Yoshinori Ishii, affectionately known as Yoshi, is the visionary behind Tokito, a luxury auberge in Tachikawa. With a rich background connecting local culture to a global audience, Yoshi draws visitors from the establishment and food enthusiasts from across the world—from Europe and the Middle East to Singapore.
From a young age, Yoshi found joy in bringing his ideas to life. “I’ve always enjoyed making things and giving them to others. Making people happy through something I crafted became my passion, and eventually, I realized that being a chef would allow me to fulfill that desire,” Yoshi recalls. His fascination with European art and design influenced his path. “Looking back, I think it was an admiration. I wanted to create something equally exquisite, and I figured that as a chef, I could stand among those artists.”
After graduating from culinary school, Yoshi honed his culinary skills at Kyoto’s prestigious Kitcho. The demanding training schedule, from dawn to midnight, didn’t diminish his passion for creation. “Even with the tough hours, I was continually inspired to create, whether in the kitchen or through other artistic mediums. On my days off, I would visit potters and wander mountain trails in search of flowers I had never seen, using guidebooks to learn their names. I also took up fishing, which I came to see as its own form of art—one that demanded patience, technique, and a deep connection to nature’s rhythms. I wasn’t just cooking; I was immersing myself in the beauty of Japan’s natural world and expanding my creative horizons.”
Moments of Enchantment Beyond Seasons—An Untold Story from Japanese Fishermen
Japan is well-known for allowing people to experience the changing of the seasons through both sight and taste. However, at Tokito, they focus on creating ‘moments of tranquility’ rather than just ‘seasons,’ offering a luxurious experience that transcends traditional notions of seasonal dining. It’s not hard to understand the challenges of sticking to seasonal ingredients. Advances in technology, greenhouse farming, and climate change now allow ingredients to be available year-round, challenging the traditional concept of seasonal produce. However, Yoshi’s pursuit of ‘moments’ stems from a different reason. It is inspired by the stories he encountered during his travels across Japan in search of ingredients—tales shared by fishermen that revealed surprising, little-known aspects of seasonal produce, even to those well-versed in Japanese culinary culture.
Yoshi says, “during my travels across various regions in Japan searching for ingredients, I learned that the concept of seasonal fish in Tokyo often derives from interpretations suited to Edo-style or Kansai cuisine. For instance, while flounder is generally considered in season during winter, fishermen from Sado share a different perspective: Traditionally, the best time for flounder is actually in May and June when it is at its richest and most delicious. When I tasted the ‘spring flounder,’ I was truly amazed. I had always labeled it as a winter fish, which surprisingly redefined my ideas.”
Yoshi continues, “Upon reflection, it’s only natural that the seasonality of fish varies by region due to ocean currents and environmental conditions. The reason flounder is categorized as a winter fish stems from the significant rise of sushi restaurants across Japan over the past few decades. This growth has led to a greater prevalence of seafood cooking in households. As sushi culture expanded, the perception of seasonal availability began to align with urban market trends.
In the Tokyo market, flounder is predominantly available in winter, and both books and online sources state that ‘flounder is in season during winter.’ This dynamic between the distribution systems and consumer culture of major cities has resulted in a recognition of seasonal availability. Often, this differs from the actual times when these fish are caught in local waters.” —In the Tokyo market from May to June, you’ll find flatfish instead of flounder.
His approach not only enhances the dining experience but also contributes to supporting local fishermen. Yoshi explains,“In light of this situation, at Tokito, we source the most delicious flounder from Sado during its peak season and gather seasonal ingredients from various regions to create our dishes.”
A Legacy Revived: The Story of Tokito
Tokito stands on land deeply cherished by the people of Tachikawa and the surrounding Tama region. Originally a 1940s-era inn called Mumon-an, it served Japanese military personnel during the pre-war and wartime periods at Tachikawa Airfield. After Japan lost the war, it became an accommodation for the American military. Once the U.S. forces returned it, the building was transformed into a beloved local restaurant, once again named Mumon-an.
After its closure in 2019, the site was revived by Tachihi Holdings, a local company dedicated to preserving the cultural and historical essence of Tachikawa. Yoshi, moved by their vision, relocated from London to lead the project. His goal is to create a dining experience that not only reflects the rich history of the inn but also honors its natural beauty and community.
Yoshi’s dedication to creating meaningful moments for guests is reflected throughout the entire facility, from the tearoom to the dining and guest rooms. Each experience is meticulously designed to shine at every moment, whether it’s the pairing of Japanese tea and sweets with savory treats during afternoon tea, enjoying innovative cuisine that goes beyond traditional Japanese food concepts, or relaxing in the private onsen bathtub and spa space in each guest room.
Yoshi is deeply committed to passing on his knowledge to the next generation of chefs, encouraging them to look beyond mastering culinary techniques alone. “The culinary field is evolving rapidly. For instance, sushi robots have reached a level of precision that surpasses human chefs. It’s important for young professionals to not only refine their skills but also broaden their understanding of the world and innovate,” he advises.
Toki-iro: Capturing Japan’s Changing Horizons
The name ‘Tokito’ captures the essence of time and the color of the bird known as Nipponia nippon, or the Japanese crested ibis. Its hue, a soft pale pink with a hint of yellow, is also recognized as a traditional Japanese color called toki-iro. However, for Yoshi, there is another cherished meaning behind “toki-iro”—one he rediscovered after returning to Japan. It represents the ever-changing colors of the sky from sunrise to sunset, reflecting fleeting moments woven by time, constantly shifting and evolving.
“After deciding to name this place ‘Tokito,’ I came to appreciate the true essence of the ancient Japanese term ‘toki-iro’. As an island nation, Japan’s unique geography shapes its environment. This is different from places like England or the States. It affects the flow of clouds, ocean currents, and the ever-changing skies. In larger continental countries, the sky may stay the same for long periods. In Japan, however, the shape of the clouds can change dramatically in just five minutes. This contrast made me appreciate anew the natural beauty that unfolds here from morning to evening and into the night. When watching the sunset, if you close your eyes for just a minute and then open them again, the colors will have transformed completely. Isn’t it beautiful to witness these fleeting moments? I believe this, too, is one of Japan’s picturesque tranquil treasures.”
Yoshinori Ishii, Executive Producer and Head Chef, Tokito
Yoshinori Ishii also known as Yoshi, is the Executive Producer and Head Chef at the Japanese restaurant Tokito in Tachikawa. After establishing himself as the Sous Chef at Kyoto Kitcho Arashiyama, Yoshi served as the chef for the Japanese ambassador’s residence in both Geneva and New York. In 2010, he became the Head Chef at UMU, a kaiseki restaurant in London, leading it to become the first Japanese restaurant in Europe to earn two Michelin stars, which he successfully maintained for five years.
About Tachikawa
Tachikawa is known for its history as the site of a U.S. military base, which brought significant changes to the area, spurring infrastructure development and economic growth after the war. After the base was later returned to Japan, Tachikawa actively engaged in urban redevelopment. Today, Tachikawa flourishes as the gateway to Tama. As a tourist destination, Tachikawa is home to the Showa Commemorative National Park and has recently gained popularity as a mecca for anime and manga fans.