Everyone feels a particular sense of comfort in a place they have lived for a long time. Although Hodaka Shimazu feels affinities for other neighborhoods in Tokyo, he admits that he is strangely drawn back to Kunitachi and has moved in and out of the area several times over the last 15 years. “Kunitachi has its unique culture that I find attractive. I like the town’s atmosphere, where some of my closest friends and artists live,” he said.
When Hodaka is most exhausted, he visits Hatonoyu, the only public bathhouse left in Kunitachi, and Rikyu, the oldest local pub. “They are the best places to relax,” he said. Sometimes, he goes to the neighboring community Yaho for a drink afterward. The bathhouse has a sauna. He admits that Rikyu’s signature dishes featuring food from Yamagata prefecture, grilled skewers, and sake taste exceptionally good after the hot sauna.
In Kunitachi, many famous restaurants still retain the atmosphere of the good old days. Rosina Chabo, Coffee Shokanshu, and other coffee shops have been around for over half a century and have ardent followers. Italian Kozo, with its menu featuring 80 kinds of pasta dishes, is another notable spot. Hodaka said, “I like Shokanshu a lot. It’s a small space, but it feels comfortable when you enter. Also, the bento shop Orange, run by an elderly couple, has the best salmon bento and croquettes. I want these places to stay in business, so I am spreading the word about these places to as many people as I can.”
Enticed by the Town’s Unique Culture
There are many galleries in the area where Hodaka’s professors from art school exhibit their works. Perhaps due to the proximity to art schools and the area’s unique characteristics, there are also many one-of-a-kind stores. Hodaka continued, “Ari-san of Korenona is one of the people in Kunitachi who has been doing interesting things for a long time. She has been interviewed by various media, and even though her store attracts a lot of people, she is very low-key, which I like about her very much. Korenona is a store that sells only old paintings by unknown authors. ‘Korenona’ means ‘the name of this’ and she collects antique paintings by unknown artists.”
If you walk straight down Daigaku-dori from Kunitachi Station and come across a row of old-fashioned housing complexes and a shopping district, you are entering Yaho. Although both areas are part of Kunitachi, the area around Yaho Station is more vibrant, according to Hodaka. His favorite local restaurant is Snack Suichu. It is run by Sakane, a former student of Hitotsubashi University, who took over the management of the snack bar. The bar has garnered significant media attention because she is a graduate of an elite university. Previously managed by a female owner, the bar features a contemporary design created by the former owner and her architect friend. It is famous for attracting a good crowd every night in the back alleys of Yaho. Additionally, the area boasts a gallery, a café, and a bookstore.
“Atsushi Miura is a best-selling author and a graduate of Hitotsubashi. He also knows what is going on in town as he loves walking around the area. I organized a book launch event at Hanto for him. He is a connoisseur of culture and city life. Some of his books discuss the Kunitachi and Yaho neighborhoods, noting that Yaho —not Kunitachi—was originally the cultural center of the area.
Tama is home to three art schools: Tama Art University, Musashino Art University, and Tokyo Zokei University. Additionally, there is the Kunitachi College of Music. The Tokyo National University of Fine Arts and Music is in Ueno, Tokyo, but due to the different locations, the school cultures vary significantly. Hodaka has been deeply involved with the art scene in Tama.
“Tama has a community of art students and teachers. There are many art studios, and people are doing interesting things. I used to be a student myself, but now I teach at Musashino Art University. While many students who went to schools here eventually leave Tama, I believe they gain a lot from this place. I teach at the University’s main campus in Takanodai, Tama, and sometimes at the Ichigaya campus in central Tokyo.”
“I often hear people say, ‘Tama is a good place for art students.’ This is largely due to Tama’s location and atmosphere. You can paint while looking out at fields and rice paddies in the evening. The experience of staying up all night and concentrating on creating something is unique here and harder to replicate in Ichigaya, where the school building feels like an office. On the other hand, Musashino Art University collaborates with corporations on innovative projects. So, I acknowledge the importance of having a presence in the most urban part of Tokyo.”
“In principle, I believe it is better for art schools to be located outside city centers. An art school in the countryside, where there is nothing around but the school, is an ideal place for students to create, meet people, and find the most inspiration. For us, it is where something of the highest level is created. I teach at an art school in Akita, and that school exemplifies this kind of environment.”
The Art of Being Alone
While managing Hanto, Hodaka continues working as a filmmaker. The production involves a large team. However, the tasks of editing, finishing, and delivering the filmed material to the client are handled solely by Hodaka. This makes him entirely responsible for the final product. For someone who often works independently, what are his thoughts on “alone time”?
“I think I have had a strong sense of being alone since I was a student. I like the word ‘alone’ a lot. As a student, I read a book about chamber music for one person, and it said that everything exists to spend time alone. I also belonged to a mountaineering club back then, and I believe mountain climbing is the ultimate solo experience. When you go to the mountains, you carry all your essentials: food, clothing, shelter—everything. You are responsible for yourself, including having the physical strength to do the hike.”
Until a few years ago, Hodaka used to organize an event called Mountain Meetings with a group of friends he had climbed mountains with. It was an experience similar to gathering around a campfire, bringing together people from different backgrounds.
“When we go up the mountain as individual climbers, we set up our tents separately, but we cook meals together. We’re not always congregating, but when it’s time, we come together. We realized that it could be a lot of fun to be with people that way.”
“I like people, but I don’t like hanging out just for the sake of it. It may sound cliché, but to truly respect others, it’s important to understand what it means to be alone. It’s good to know that you can enjoy other people’s company while maintaining a certain distance.”
Hodaka Shimazu, Filmmaker and Owner of Hanto
Hodaka Shimazu is a filmmaker based in Kunitachi. He also teaches at Musashino Art University. In August 2023, he opened Hanto, which means peninsula in Japanese, in Kunitachi. It’s a gallery in a renovated kominka, a traditional Japanese house. Unlike ordinary galleries, it also serves as a meeting place for people interested in cultural activities. The concept of Hanto is to create a place that is partially open but partially closed to the outside world.
About Kunitachi
Kunitachi developed into a college town after Hitotsubashi University, a prominent public university, relocated from the city center in the early Showa period (1926-1989). The main street extending south from Kunitachi Station is called Daigaku-dori (university avenue) and leads to Hitotsubashi University. This street is also renowned for its cherry blossoms, with approximately 200 trees lining the avenue. Kunitachi was cherished by writer Hitomi Yamaguchi and musicians Kiyoshiro Imawano and Ryuichi Sakamoto among other well-known artists and writers.